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Creating the hair and make-up for Isaac Raymond Photo Shoot

 How I created the hair and make-up for our photo shoot with designer Isaac Raymond at the Buster and Punch Showroom.

 Look 1 -  Anorexia. This simple but peaceful piece is the final dress for the anorexia garments. It symbolises that the girl has managed to combat her illness and overcome it. She can finally be at peace with herself. The flowing white tulle shows her new freedom and the fact the she is so happy to be able to now show her body and be proud of it. The lace 'floating' lace appliqué also has little crystals on them to add a glitter of light. (Isaac Raymond)

Hair - I wanted to create texture with the hair to carry through the lace that Isaac had incorporated in to his design so sectioned the front hair away from the rest of the hair and pinned aside for later attention.  I then crimped the rest of Nicole's hair to create texture.  I then set to work with my assistant, Zoe on the front section.  We used very small transparent elastic bands that you buy to use on mouth braces and created the pattern with the hair by separating  and securing back over the head to use the shape of Nicole's head.  I wanted a colour separation for the hair so once we had styled the front section, I placed paper underneath it and sprayed the hair white.  Once the hairspray had dried, I slid the paper out and secured the hair in place using small squiggly hair pins.

Make-up - I made the eyelashes using white hair to resemble the underneath of the skirt and to follow the theme through.  I then decided to use contrasting colours with the make-up application, using orange on the eyes and outlining them with black, I carried this through on the lips with a black outline and orange in the middle and the blush was orange tones to follow the colour through the entire face.  I set the face make-up with an iridescent white shimmer powder that would capture and bounce the light from the flash back into the camera.

Look 2 - Schizophrenia. This piece is the second stage in the schizophrenia trilogy. It is at the point when the person is starting to deal with their illness. The black lace with shinning white taffeta showing from behind symbolises that a lighter and more peaceful time is coming but there are still dark painful thoughts. The black dripping latex cuffs on the jacket is a comment on hallucinations and the feeling of darkness and pain. (Isaac Raymond)

Hair - I wanted to create textured hair once more with model Ioanna and decided to take inspiration from the pattern of the fabric on the corset.  This time, I sectioned the hair from the front to the nape (length ways) into three sections.  The middle section was then divided into five separate sections and backcombed before securing each section in to five small buns on the head.  The side sections were loosely knotted and secured whilst I worked by way down towards the nape of the neck.  I then crimped the remaining hair and kept it loose to keep some length of the hair.
I then sprayed the top surface of the hair using a silver hairspray whilst keeping the underneath of the hair its natural dark brown.

Make-up - I used Isaac's brief of what the costume represented to tie the make-up in with the outfit.  This was someone recovering and starting to gain confidence but with the set back of 'dark thoughts'  I therefore created eyes that were lined with black eyeliner and red lips, showing confidence but then I used a stipple sponge dipped in black face paint to 'scrape' in places around the eyes and face, showing harm and hurt.  I sprayed Ioanna's forehead with the silver hairspray to show that this wasn't yet a completely 'stable' person.

Look 3 - Anorexia. This piece is all about seeing yourself as 'FAT' or something you are not! The large black leather box shows how the person who sees them-self as something big, unnatural in shape and ugly. The colour of the leather had to be black to symbolise dark thoughts and the cage embroidery is another comment on being trapped by an illness. The corset shows the truth about the illness as it shows their real size and the texture is a gross rough akin colour liquid latex to show the way it destroys your body. (Isaac Raymond)
Hair - I backcombed Nicole's hair and rolled it into two Victory rolls on top of her head before securing with hair pins.  I then sprayed her hair gold to match the 'rose gold' of her corset.

Make-up -  I gave Nicole dramatic smoky eyes using black and blending this out and finished with pale pink lips to match the pink knickers.  I used a soft pink blusher on her cheeks to finish the look off and to see the colour through the face.
I decided to spray the top of Nicole's forehead to blend in with the hair but also to reflect the light to create this photo.  The make-up was created to be dramatic so that it tied in with the lighting and brief which was to be dark and creative.

Look 4 - Schizophrenia. This dress is from the first stage of the collection when the models are in their worst mental state. This piece symbolises the symptoms and intense emotions. The dry blood dripping down the neck and up the sleeves symbolises the horrific hallucinations. The leather heavy chain cuffs are a comment on being trapped in your mind. (Isaac Raymond)

 Hair - Using the crimped texture of Ioanna's hair from her first look, I wanted to see through Isaac's synopsis of this costume and pinned up the hair roughly as I didn't want to create  a 'set style' that was too neat.  I wanted to pin up with a bit of irregularity so that when hair started falling down, I could use this to create the finished look.

Make-up - Because this outfit represented the first stage of schizophrenia, I wanted to try to bring out the dark thoughts and emotions that a person may be feeling.  I created very dark eyes using black that I smudged across the face, once again, not wanting to create a 'defined and fished look'  I used a very dark blood red for the lips.  I created a shadow around the model's forehead and jawline to try and show insecurities and brought the shadow under the chin in to a triangle in an attempt to resemble 'dark thoughts' from the illness.

Designer - Isaac Raymond
Photographer - David Long (Exposure Studios London)
Assistant - Chinara Pilkington
Hair and Make-up - Amy Prifti
Assistant - Zoe Foster
Location - Buster & Punch
Models - Nicole Dutschke & Ioanna Pitsillou-Kruizenga


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